Questions we hear from both buyer types
If yours isn't here, send it to us directly — we'll answer it and likely add it.
No. HUD only resells single-family (and some condo/townhome) properties that were financed with FHA-insured mortgages and went through foreclosure — HUD becomes the owner and lists them on HUD Home Store. Foreclosed homes that had conventional, non-FHA loans are typically sold separately as bank-owned (REO) listings through the lender, not through HUD.
Yes. You'll need a lockbox code from a HUD-registered broker to get in — walk-throughs are for viewing the property, not testing utilities or systems. Bring your own flashlight and a healthy amount of skepticism about anything you can't verify.
For the bid itself, yes. Only brokers registered and approved with HUD can submit bids on HUD Home Store, regardless of how experienced your regular agent is. Your agent can often co-broke the deal with a HUD-registered broker, or you can work directly with one.
No. The broker's commission is paid by HUD out of the sale proceeds under HUD's listing terms — it isn't added to your purchase price or billed to you separately.
Your contract will spell out any financing contingency period. Missing your closing deadline, or backing out without a valid contingency, can put your earnest money deposit at risk — confirm the exact terms with your broker and lender before you bid, not after.
Generally, no. HUD homes are sold as-is/where-is, and HUD typically won't make repairs or offer price credits for condition issues found after acceptance. This is exactly why a pre-bid walk-through and a fast, thorough inspection during your due-diligence window matter.
The Property Condition Report (PCR) is HUD's own basic, non-warranted summary of visible condition — useful context, not a substitute for a licensed inspector. Always get your own inspection during your contract's due-diligence period.
No. During that window — 15 days on FHA-insurable homes, 5 days on non-insurable homes — only owner-occupant bids are accepted. Investor, second-home, and non-occupant entity bids are held until the property opens to all buyers.
The property automatically opens to all buyer types — including investors — the day after the exclusive window ends, with no separate application needed.
Largely the same categories as any Florida resale purchase: title insurance, recording fees, prorated property taxes, an HOA estoppel fee where applicable, and your lender's own closing fees. Your broker and title company will walk you through a full estimate before you're locked in.
No — HUD Home Store also lists condos, townhomes, and some 2–4 unit properties depending on what's in inventory for your area. If you're financing with FHA, double-check the building's FHA condo-approval status before you bid.
As an owner-occupant, you generally can't buy another HUD home as an owner-occupant within 24 months of your last one. Investors can typically bid on multiple case numbers, subject to your financing capacity and whatever bidding limits HUD has in effect at the time.
Cash buyers need a current proof of funds letter or bank/brokerage statement showing funds covering the purchase price; financed buyers need a lender pre-qualification or pre-approval letter. Both go in with your bid itself, not afterward, along with certified-funds earnest money. See our full proof of funds guide for exactly what HUD and your broker will expect.
As a general rule, keep cash proof of funds fairly recent — commonly within about a week — and financing pre-approval letters within about 30 days. Refresh yours right before you plan to bid rather than weeks ahead of time. More detail in our proof of funds guide.